Are seed oils in skincare bad? Short answer: No. “Seed oils” is too broad a bucket to be useful and this is yet another topic with nuance. We cannot demonize an entire class of oils based on a few bad apples. What matters is processing, fatty-acid profile and compatibility with your skin. Let's discuss!
What Are Seed Oils?
Seed oils are lipid extracts pressed or solvent-extracted from the seeds of plants. They’re mostly triglycerides (glycerol bound to three fatty acids) but also contains antioxidants that influence stability and skin feel. Their skin behavior depends less on the “seed” label and more on the fatty-acid profile. Many seed oils are rich in Polyunsaturated Fatty Acids (PUFA) and linoleic acid which have anti-inflammatory and skin barrier repair benefits.
Some seed oils are only used topically, while others have cooking uses as well. Seeds hold the blueprint for life itself, and not all of them should be feared.
Why Do People Believe Seed Oils Are Bad?
A lot of online skepticism comes from cooking oil debates—especially PUFA-rich oils at high heat, where toxic aldehydes can form. That’s a real food science conversation, and you'll will find "experts" on opposite ends of the spectrum. One thing they do agree on, however, is that your overall diet quality is most important.
Oils that particularly have a bad reputation in cooking are: Canola/Rapeseed, Soybean, Corn Oil, and Cottonseed Oil, which are often found in highly processed fast food and supermarket convenience foods.
But what is important to note here, is that topical use is not the same as oral consumption. We are also not deep frying the oil on our skin. In addition, a bleached, solvent-treated oil is very different from a cold-pressed oil filled with pro-vitamin A carotenoids + vitamin E and more. Consider this: why do we celebrate pumpkin seeds or seeded bread? Seeds themselves are not the problem. Processing and route of exposure do matter. Keep reading.
Route Of Exposure Matters
Our skin is a formidable barrier. Only a small subset of molecules can actually reach past the three layers of your skin. Most ingredients remain in the outer layers.
Now you might think, well what about medicines that are administered dermally? Those products are especially formulated to enhance penetration. Formulators can do this by adding delivery systems or playing with the particle size (nanoparticles, for example) (source).
No, it's not actually true that everything you apply on your skin is absorbed into your blood stream in 30 seconds. It could be true for some ingredients, but not all of them. This is far too universal of a statement to be factually correct. It varies by ingredient and many factors are at play.
When we’re evaluating ingredient safety, we have to distinguish between oral, inhalation, and dermal exposures. Not all routes of exposure lead to the same effects. This is standard in toxicology, and regulators provide specific guidance depending on the route. The European Commission has some of the strictest ingredient standards. Take a sneak peek at their Safety Testing Guidance and you’ll see how complex it is to determine true toxicity—many factors play a role.
In short: what’s true for digestion isn’t automatically true for skin. The ingredients will be metabolized and processed by your body very differently.
How Oils Are Processed Matters
Typically, your best choice is cold-pressed or expeller-pressed oils because they tend to retain more of their beneficial compounds. However, in some cases, minor refining can improve oxidation control and stability. A CO2 extraction is also a safe way of extracting and preserving the oil's benefits.
Avoid heavily refined oils that are bleached and deodorized using harsh steps and solvents like hexane (on our no-no list for being a reproductive toxin).
Organic or wild-crafted oils are preferred. They aren't always available for every variety, depending on the country of origin and available farming practices. Our best recommendation is to purchase from a reputable brand or supplier (like us!) who aligns with your ingredient standards.
In simpler terms, most people in the clean living space adopt this standard: cold-pressed organic or wildcrafted oils are okay; avoid hexane-extracted, heavily refined and bleached oils.
Seed Oils Are A Match For Your Skin’s Own Lipids
Going further... I’m not only saying seed oils are not bad for your skin—I’m also saying many are fantastic! Oils contain the same types of fatty acids and lipids your skin uses. That’s why oil products are effective: your skin can recognize these molecules and use them to heal, repair, and replenish (source).
Triglycerides, linoleic acid, oleic acid, palmitic acid—all appear in human skin and in many plant oils. For example, acne-prone skin often benefits from topical linoleic acid because acne-prone skin tends to have lower levels. Seed oils are one of the best sources of linoleic acid!
How To Choose The Right Oil For Your Skin
By now, it’s clear not all oils are created equal. But we still have to layer in efficacy—something we are really passionate about here at Ivy & Fields. Each oil has its unique properties that can help address different skin conditions. I've put together a list below to help you find what is right for you. Many times, these oils are blended together to achieve optimum results or address multiple skin issues, like in our Youth Nectar!
Not all of these are seed oils. I have also layered in other nut and plant oils for a more comprehensive list.
- Acai Berry Oil — best for: normal, dry, dull/tired, mature
- Argan Oil — best for: normal, dry, combo, sensitive, mature
- Avocado Oil — best for: dry, mature, or sensitized skin; barrier repair and winter care; but may feel heavy on very oily/acne-prone skin
- Black Currant Oil — best for: dry, eczema/dermatitis-prone, sensitive, mature
- Black Cumin Seed Oil (Nigella sativa) — best for: acne-prone, oily, congested, inflamed
- Buah Merah Oil (Red Fruit) — best for: dry, dull/uneven tone, mature
- Cacay Oil — best for: dry, combo, mature, uneven tone
- Camellia Seed Oil — best for: normal, dry, sensitive, mature, oily-dehydrated
- Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides (MCT) — best for: all skin types, incl. acne-prone, sensitive, “fungal-acne”-prone
- Carrot Seed Oil (carrier/macerate) — best for: dry, dull/uneven tone, mature
- Castor Seed Oil — best for: very dry, chapped or flaky skin; hair; lip care; lash/brow conditioning; makeup removal (I don't personally recommend for face)
- Coconut Oil — best for: very dry body skin and rough patches (elbows/heels); but skip for acne-prone faces
- Hemp Seed Oil — best for: acne-prone, oily, combo, inflamed/barrier-compromised
- Jojoba Oil — best for: all skin types, esp. combo, oily-dehydrated, sensitive
- Meadowfoam Seed Oil — best for: all skin types, esp. dry/sensitive
- Olive Oil — best for: dry, mature (for face, use only if you tolerate rich oils)
- Plum Kernel Oil — best for: normal, dry, sensitive, mature
- Pomegranate Seed Oil — best for: dry, mature, irritated/red
- Prickly Pear (Opuntia) Oil — best for: dry, sensitive, mature, uneven tone
- Rosehip Oil — best for: acne-prone, combo, mature, scars/uneven tone
- Sunflower Oil — best for: all skin types; sensitive/eczema-prone; acne-prone (high-linoleic); premier source for extracting Vitamin E and excellent for herbal infusions and maceration.
- Tamanu Oil — best for: acne-prone, spot-treating scars/marks, dry/inflamed
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Watermelon Seed Oil — best for: acne-prone, oily, combo (lightweight)
Comedogenic Rating Of Oils
One caveat to be wary of when choosing oils, is their individual comedogenic ratings. Comedogenic ratings refer to ingredients which are likely to clog pores (0-2 is generally safe, while 3-5 is more concerning). As someone who has suffered from hormonal acne for most of my life, this is always top of mind for me, and I generally avoid all 3+ rated oils on my face.
Read our article on comedogenic ratings for more on this! I do still use some comedogenic oils—but for hair and body only, not face.
Seed Oils In Skincare
So, are seed oils in skincare bad? No. What’s “bad” is poorly chosen, poorly processed, or poorly formulated oils. Match the fatty-acid profile to your goal (barrier, acne, sensitivity), pick fresh and appropriately processed oils, stabilize them with antioxidants, and judge the finished formula—not just a "seed oil" label. When you do that, seed oils aren’t villains; they’re some of the most skin-compatible tools we have!
Check out our Instagram Post on the same topic for even more information.
